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If it has been a while since you last visited Rotorua, particularly around the foreshore, you’re in for a trail of treats. Rotorua’s foreshore developments and lakefront boardwalk have added some stirringly good additions to the city’s arsenal. The boardwalk is a soulful spot for a stroll at daybreak, as the morning mist ethereally dances on the gleaming body of water. The boardwalk’s trove of art installations and evocative design touches are masterstrokes, like the lookalike silica terraces that cascade down to the water’s edge. Your kids will be enchanted with the colossal new playground, too. 

Also adorning the lakefront, Wai Ariki Hot Springs and Spa. This iwi-led, luxury spa burst onto the scene less than two years ago, but they’ve fast cemented themselves as a signature Rotorua experience. Built on the legacy of Māori culture and Ngāti Whakaue healing practices, this is quite simply New Zealand’s premium cultural and wellness centre. Rather than just a quick soak in a hot pool, Wai Ariki has developed a far more immersive, multi-sensory approach to its healing waters experience, housed within an architecturally captivating complex.  

Wai Ariki Hot Springs and Spa Pool. Photo / RotoruaNZ

Your two hour-long Restorative Journey wellness experience comprises five distinct experiences that complement each other, moving you from the extremities of heat to cool, mud to water, and air to steam – all aimed at maximising the therapeutic geothermal benefits. I passed through the Waterfall Showers, where the soft streams of cold water stimulate the body, before lounging in the Tongariro Fire & Ice Caves. This entails sauna time before throwing ice flakes over your body to improve your vigour. It’s shockingly invigorating. Next up, the gorgeous Geothermal Pools, spanning a range of temperatures from 12C to 41C, with a ringside view across Lake Rotorua. 

Once again, it’s all geared at revitalising the body with that stark contrast of soaking in piping hot herbal, hydrotherapy and mineral pools - and then bravely submitting to the bracing, body-tingling plunge pool. Rinse and repeat! From there, I unleashed my inner-child in the Geothermal Mud Lounge, slathering my skin in the runny, nourishing mud. It’s great for your complexion! Your final stop is in the Steam Room, where you recline on heated stones in a misty cave-like room to wash away the mud. It’s a transformative two hours – my body felt rebooted from tip to toe. Wai Ariki has dramatically raised the bar on delivering a luxury wellness experience, steeped in cultural authenticity and a proud sense of place.   

The following morning, I ventured north of the city centre to ride up the slopes of Mt. Ngongotaha on the Skyline Gondola.  Alighting from my gondola cabin after the 900-metre long ascent, it’s the soul-rinsing views across the city and Lake Rotorua that I sweetly savoured. Bobbing on the horizon, storied Mokoia Island and its long association with Pokarekare Ana. Some versions of the love song refer to Lake Rotorua and the story of Hinemoa swimming across the lake to her forbidden lover, Tūtānekai, on Mokoia Island. Then a touch of forest-bathing, stepping out on the hour-long Skyline nature walk, at the top of the mountain, draped in 15,000 native trees. Information boards are scattered along the path offering cultural and historical information about the region. Local iwi believe fairy-like people live in this forest and on the misty mountain tops of Ngongotaha – not unlike the forest-dwellers of the Ureweras. For some adrenalin-raising frolics, there’s a wealth of attractions including the Skyswing, zipline, mountain biking (on the world-class downhill track recently used for Crankworx) and the gravity-fuelled thrill of the luge. It was quite the place to lose my luge virginity, on the newly designed luge tracks, winding through over 12,000 native trees, LED-lit tunnels and a plethora of twists and turns. Part go-kart/part toboggan, these specially-designed luge carts have a novel braking and steering system, whereby you pull back on the handle bars to slow, and release to accelerate. It really is fast-paced freedom on the 7kms of curvaceous tracks, including the world’s longest. I’m hooked! 

Skyline Nature Walk at Mt Ngongotaha. Photo / Mike Yardley

For a change of pace, I headed to the Okere Falls Scenic Reserve, a splendid spot for basking in the finery of native forest, slashed by the fast-flowing rapids of the Kaituna River and its sequence of four spectacular falls. From the main lookout platform near Hinemoa's Steps, my jaw repeatedly dropped as I watched whitewater rafters and kayakers plummet over the 7-metre high, Tutea Falls. Tutea lays claim to being the highest commercially-used waterfall in the world, amongst rafters. The first 11km of this section of the Kaituna River is also referred to the Okere River which fittingly means "the place of drifting.” As the name suggests, Kaituna refers to its traditional importance as a food source, namely eels. Before the first road bridge over the river was built in 1872, local Māori operated a ferry across the inlet, connecting travellers connecting Tauranga with Rotorua. 

After taking in the gushing waterworks, I joined the enormous conga line of parked cars on SH6, across the road from Lake Rotoiti, to get my fill of the insatiably popular Okere Falls Store. With a charming vintage-rustic vibe and homely atmosphere, there’s a variety of seating areas, although their cranking backyard beer garden is best if the weather’s behaving. It’s a mix of general store, deli, café and beer garden. Alongside their decorated toasties, the burgers, bratwurst and nachos are perennial belly-pleasers. And they do a great all-day breakfast menu. I plumped for the Turkish poached eggs, accompanied with yoghurt & lemon feta dip, harissa relish and charred butter sourdough. Wash it all down with a Sunshine smoothie, consisting of frozen mango, pineapple, lime, coconut and cardamom. 

Tutea Falls at Okere Falls Scenic Reserve. Photo / Mike Yardley

In a region replete with geothermal glories, settling on what to explore can be like asking to choose your favourite child. On my latest visit, I reacquainted myself with Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland. It’s well-named, because the wonders in this geothermal park pulsate with raw power and vivid colour. It’s an enthralling showcase of geothermal eye-candy, including the Lady Knox Geyser, which blows its top every day at 10.15am. Nature’s force gets a helping hand from some detergent, and a constructed ‘blow hole’ that funnels all the steam into an impressive display. 

Sculptured out of volcanic activity and thousands of years in the making, headline features at Wai-O-Tapu include New Zealand’s largest mud pool. I gazed in awe at the gloopy, gurgling mass of mud, as if it was a living, burping organism. Artist's Palette lookout provides a panoramic overview of the bizarre landscape, pockmarked with variously coloured rust-red, orange or yellow springs, many of which are boiling at extreme temperatures. If ever there is a place where you need to stick to the boardwalks – this is it! A starring attraction is the Champagne Pool, New Zealand’s largest hot springs, reaching a depth of 62 metres.  

Wai-O-Tapu Champagne Pool. Photo / RotoruaNZ

The champagne colour denotes the abundance of CO2 in the pool, while other chemical compounds conspire to create the bright orange edges which offset the alluring aquamarine centre. Devil’s Bath is another cracking spectacle, an electric green sulphur lake which looks cartoonish in colour, if not radioactive! Another surreal sight is the collapsed Rua Owhanga Crater where starlings and swallows will happily nest in the walls of the crater which doubles as a useful incubator to heat their eggs before hatching. What a way to be welcomed to the world! Wai-O-Tapu is a gob-stopper.  

From geothermal wonders, hot pools and Māori culture to world-beating mountain biking, historic draws and creative dining, Rotorua is power-packed for adventure-seekers. For more trip inspiration and constantly updated destination insights, jump to   

I rocked my way around wonderful Rotorua in a trusty hybrid Ford Puma, courtesy of Ezi Car Rental. I thoroughly enjoyed the Ezi experience, where excellent vehicles, super sharp prices and fast & friendly service are all part of the package. Ezi Car Rental operates an extensive network from 24 locations across the country. They’re everywhere you want to be with vehicles to suit your specific needs. Head to   

Mike Yardley is ��һ�ǿ�����talk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.