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Far from being just a port town, Picton has blossomed into a fully-fledged holiday gem.  Wrapped in forest-clad hills, the Picton foreshore is studded with a swag of hospo spots and heritage treasures like the Edwin Fox, in addition to being an alluring launch-pad for savouring Queen Charlotte Sound. 

At daybreak, the glossy deep blue water surrounding Picton Marina gleamed like a photoshoot-ready aquatic jewel. Picton had dawned bright, brilliant and perky as early-risers exercised on the velvety grass waterfront, while the horse-shoe curve of swanky cafes edging the harbour were humming with trade. A great head-clearer to start your day is to cross the marina’s coathanger bridge around to Shelley Beach and take the walking trail to Bob’s Bay. This short and sweet hillside stroll on the harbour edge, offers a stirring vantage point to watch the ferries pulling out of Picton. There’s a stack of salivating trails lacing Picton.  

Picton Marina in the morning sun. Photo / MarlboroughNZ

Another perennial favourite is Snout Track. The full walk is 12km return, moderately challenging, as it climbs its way through bush. But it’s the marque views of Queen Charlotte Sound, all the way to the head of the peninsula, which makes this walk the gift that keeps on giving. If you’re short on time, drive through Victoria Domain to the Queen Charlotte viewpoint carpark, overlooking Titokai Bay (where the ferry grounded last year) and Karaka Bay. Viewissimo! The remainder of the track to “The Snout” is just 40 minutes, each way from the car park. And I also love the Picton-Waikawa track, which also meanders through Victoria Domain. It’s a doddle of a walk, ringing with birdsong, zipping you to the serene sights of Waikawa Bay.  

Back in Picton, prior to boarding my scenic cruise on Queen Charlotte Sound, I headed to the hip waterfront venue, Toastie Lords, which continues turning heads and seducing passers-by, with its gourmet sourdough toasted sandwiches, all made with their in-house four cheese blend. I ordered up an Ivan, consisting of pastrami, sauerkraut and pickle. Delish! Another hot seller is their Pete toastie, which combines salmon with caper cream cheese and pickles. As an aside for lunch or dinner, for swanky Mediterranean-style dining, I definitely recommend pulling up a seat at Cortado. Their tapas and small plates menu is particularly good, spanning Spanish meatballs to Lamb tostada. Cortado is owned by a Mark Yardley, so it’s got be good, right?  

Toastie Lords in Picton. Photo / MarlboroughNZ

Plump for a day trip with one of the region’s oldest tourist operators, Beachcomber Cruises. If you’re keen to combine cruising with a spot of walking on the Queen Charlotte Track, my recommended magical day out whisks you to Ship Cove, before re-boarding the vessel for the homerun from Furneaux Lodge or Punga Cove.  

At Ship Cove, I dabbled in the creek where Captain Cook made home brew for his crew before surveying the magnificent Cook monument commemorating his visits to the area. He hoisted the Union Jack and proclaimed sovereignty of the South Island in 1770, at Motuara Island. Throughout the 1770s, Ship Cove provided safe anchorage, food, water and timber for Cook and his crew on five separate occasions, marking some of the earliest sustained contact between Māori and Europeans. Cook loved Ship Cove. 

The information panels chart the rich history, but what grabbed my attention is one of the original cannons from Endeavour, that adorns the monument. The cannon was salvaged from North Queensland, after the Endeavour ran aground on a reef and the crew had to throw numerous equipment overboard, to free the ship. A gorgeous carved pou whenua vividly illustrates the wonderful legend of Kupe and the giant octopus he chased in these waters. Ship Cove is a heart-stealer. 

Cook Monument at Ship Cove. Photo / MarlboroughNZ

I’m a bit of a twitcher, so if birding is your bag, another winning option is to take a half-day jaunt to Motuara Island. Just offshore from Ship Cove, Beachcomber Cruises operates a stunning excursion to the bird island sanctuary between October and the end of April. Arriving at this fabulous little island, you’ll be serenaded by a chorus of birdsong from the local inhabitants. The one-way track threading around the hill serves up several lookout points, including a cracking perch across to the North Island at the Cook Strait lookout.  

Motuara Island attracts bird lovers from around the world. A clutch of eagle-eyed British birders joined me on my excursion. All introduced pests were removed from the island over 30 years ago and it’s a thriving haven. Highlights included spotting the Grey Warbler, South Island Saddleback, the yellow-crowned Parakeet (kakariki), the South Island Robin and the Marlborough Green Gecko. After some wondrous island time, Beachcomber zipped us over to Ship Cove for a brief sojourn, before cruising back to Picton.  

A South Island Robin on Motuara Island. Photo / MarlboroughNZ

For a complete change of scenery, swap the feathers for wings, down the road in Blenheim. the vintage aircraft displays at Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre are spectacular. The exhibition halls dramatically showcase classic aircraft from the two world wars. The original Great War exhibition, Knights of the Sky, features Sir Peter Jackson’s personal collection of WWI aircraft and artifacts, vividly brought to life in sensational sets crafted by the creative wizards at WingNut Films and Weta Workshop. 

The magnificently theatrical dioramas and captivating scenes depict the aircraft in compelling context – some recreate actual incidents, like the plane that crash-landed into the only tree standing on Flanders. Then there’s Dangerous Skies, the WWII exhibition, exploring the stories of both male and female aviators and their tales of valour from the forests of Germany to the steaming jungles of the South Pacific. Iconic warbirds on display include a flyable Spitfire Mk.14. One of my favourite displays is illustrated by the mannequin of a Kiwi pilot, James Hayter, who was shot down over England and parachuted to safety, dropping down in the middle of a garden party, swooned over by the assembled lovelies.  

Displays at Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre. Photo / Mike Yardley 

The collection of magnificent flying machines is indeed magnificent, but the personalised human dimension packs a poignant punch. It’s the real magic behind Omaka, warranting its reputation as a place you’ll want to visit, again and again. Scenic flights in vintage aircraft are available. But for next-level aviation exuberance, nothing beats an air show. Av-fans rejoice! The next Classic Fighters Airshow is just weeks away at Omaka Aerodrome. The 3-day celebration of aviation takes place over Easter weekend, kicking off on April 18. The line-up of aircraft is staggering, from the pioneer (pre-WWI) era 'flivvers' to fighter and bomber aircraft from both world wars, glamorous art-deco machines from the 'Golden Age' of aviation between the wars, military trainers from throughout aviation history, and post-war machines leading through to the jet age.  

At Classic Fighters, locally-based aircraft will be joined by multiple machines from around New Zealand and beyond. ‘Putting on the Ritz' is the theme for this year’s airshow, and I got a sneak peek at some of the deft touches being created by the army of volunteers, which will raise the glamour stakes and set the Marlborough skies a dazzle. For a vintage fun-filled weekend of fantastic flying, classic cars, fireworks, food and entertainment, get your tickets online now for the Marlborough Lines Classic Fighters Airshow!  

Classic Fighters Airshow. Photo / MarlboroughNZ

From the sensory natural pleasures of the Marlborough Sounds to the wings and wines of Blenheim, make your first port of call, the region’s official website.  

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.