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One of life’s great pleasures is basking in the sparkling azure splendour of the Wellington waterfront, on a sunny and calm day. On my recent visit to the Capital, the latter was a particularly unexpected pleasure, because the harbour was so flat it looked like a gleaming millpond. Drinking in the spectacle at Chaffers Marina, the thick forest of sails stood sentinel-like, backed by the tall towers of the city’s commercial forest. 

It’s the high-density, cheek-by-jowl nature of Wellington’s compact layout that anchors its verve and vitality. I began my leisurely sortie by first heading to Switched on Bikes, just across from Clyde Quay. This locally owned electric bike hire and guided tour company is the go-to for rentals and expertise. All rentals include a helmet, lock and a map. It was on a visit to Welly five years ago that Switched on Bikes introduced me to the revolutionary riding brilliance of e-bikes.  

Switched On Bikes. Photo / WellingtonNZ

They’re super easy to ride. Flick the power mode to sport or turbo and hey presto - you’ve got a sinfully effortless ride. Whether you’re navigating a head wind, a steep hill, or both – turbo makes very light work of that! Kitted out by Ryan and the team, it was hard to pull myself away from the world-class waterfront, richly embellished with eye-grabbing artworks and sublime vistas. Gazing across the glassy waters to glittery Oriental Bay, it’s that radiant sweep of brightly painted boatsheds that exemplifies Wellington’s perky, playful personality. So do the waterfront artworks.  

Yes, there’s the typical stone statues exuding stately formality and tradition, like the majestic Kupe monument, but a few steps on, your inner child is titillated by the whimsy of the Water Whirler sculpture and further down the water’s edge, the striking Solace in the Wind sculpture and the Well_ngton sign. There’s an edgy, playfulness to so much public art. After all, this is city that proudly boasts the Bucket Fountain, that still cheekily drenches the unsuspecting and inattentive in Cuba Street.  

Photo / Mike Yardley 

What absolutely staggered me is how far you ride in such a short space of time, including an easy summit of Mount Victoria.  Setting off on the Great Harbour Way shared path, which ultimately will encompass 70km of waterfront, I was soon gazing nostalgically at my old flat in Evans Bay. At Miramar, I jaunted down Shelly Bay Road to the delightfully named Chocolate Fish Café, for a well-deserved recharge, with Kiwiana vibes. This casual, quirky outpost serves delicious seafood sandwiches, burgers & salads.  

Back in town, after some indulgent downtime at QT Hotel, I took a transfixing escape to the awe-inspiring sanctuary of Zealandia. I’ve previously enjoyed daytime and twilight tours within this soothing valley haven – the world’s first fully fenced urban ecosanctuary. On my latest visit, I joined a night tour, with an astonishing number of international visitors, where the starring attraction is the chance to see foraging kiwi at night. Over 100 little spotted kiwi call the valley home, so your prospects of a close encounter sighting are pretty good.  

Aerial view of Zealandia. Photo / WellingtonNZ

Zealandia is home to the only wild population of little spotted kiwi, on the mainland. Lady luck was on our side, because our group savoured the sight of five kiwi, up-close. The evening birdsong was headlined by the piercing calls of kiwi, singing out to their partners, while the unmistakable call of the morepork was a thrill to hear. Kaka, who should be tucked up in bed, continued to make a racket at will, cart-wheeling above us and enjoying a night-time raid from the bird feeders. They are such clownish, charismatic birds. It was also a thrill to see so many tuatara, booming in population in the sanctuary.  

The glow worms spangling the hillsides turned on a radiant light show to rival the Wellington Cable Car. Our torchlight tour was adeptly led by passionate, authoritative and intuitive volunteer guides, who clearly treasure Zealandia as an extension of their home. Testament to Zealandia’s sterling endeavours is the halo effect, whereby, tui, bellbirds and kaka are now pervasive in many Wellingtonian’s backyards. 

Kaka at Zealandia. Photo / WellingtonNZ

For an absorbing encounter with more of Wellington’s natural wonders and rugged south coast, make a date with the Seal Coast Safari. This three and half hour guided tour is an eye-opener, travelling in a luxury 4WD Mercedes van. My driver-guide was Blue, who was previously a TVNZ cameraman for many decades, with a deep and infectious passion for the natural environment.  

Before heading to the coast, Blue took us to ÅŒtari-Wilton’s Bush, the only botanic garden in New Zealand dedicated solely to native plants. This sublime sanctuary and forest reserve consists of 100 hectares of native forest and five hectares of plant collections. I felt embarrassed that I had never been here before, despite living in Wellington 30 years ago.  

Following European colonisation, some of the large trees were removed for timber and others were burnt off for farmland. One of the early landowners, Job Wilton, had the foresight to preserve seven hectares of the original forest which became a scenic reserve in 1906. Twenty years later, it was complemented by the ÅŒtari Open Air Native Plant Museum, established by Dr Leonard Cockayne and JG McKenzie. Their vision continues today as ÅŒtari-Wilton’s Bush, with original and regenerating podocarp broadleaf forest. Blue led us to the large conifers such as rimu, totara, miro and matai which can be viewed from the Canopy Walkway or on the Nature Trail.  This place is a revelation in suburban Wellington. 

Podocarp forest at Ōtari-Wilton’s Bush. Photo / Mike Yardley

From there, we headed to the South Coast, which entailed a stunning drive through private farmland on the historic Terawhiti Station. Established in 1843, this is one of our nation’s oldest and biggest sheep stations which has seen plenty of changes, including the recent re-introduction of kiwi to the hills surrounding the 4800-hectare property. 850 cows and some 2000 Wiltshire sheep also graze alongside the regenerating bush. The kiwi have been reintroduced to the farm under the Capital Kiwi Project – one hundred years after they last called these hills home. 

The farm is also home to West Wind, the world’s third most productive wind farm, according to Meridian. One turbine produces another power for 1000 houses and the hills are studded with over 60 turbines. The funnelling effect of Cook Strait means the site has strong and consistent wind speeds. The weather was at its sparkling best, albeit breezy, as lip-smacking views of the Cook Strait, South Island and Kaikoura Ranges, shuffled into focus. The farm spills out from Sinclair Head onto Red Rocks Reserve, on the gnarly, rocky South Coast, lashed with enormous waves and home to a vast colony of New Zealand fur seals.  

West Wind Farm on the South Coast. Photo / Mike Yardley

They tend to be bachelor males, either juveniles or elderly seals, who are waiting their time to mate, or are past mating, with the female seals who hang out at Cape Palliser. Blue served afternoon tea as the bachelors kept us enthralled, snoozing, sunbathing and splashing about in the waves. It’s a banger of a trip, blending nature, wildlife, history and some soft adventure.   

I rocked my way around the Wellington region in a trusty hybrid Ford Puma, courtesy of Ezi Car Rental. I thoroughly enjoyed the Ezi experience, where excellent vehicles, super sharp prices and fast & friendly service are all part of the package. Ezi Car Rental operates an extensive network from 24 locations across the country. They’re everywhere you want to be with vehicles to suit your specific needs. Head to   

Treat yourself to a wild, energising autumn getaway in Wellington. Make your first port of call the official website, with constantly updated trip inspiration.   

Mike Yardley is ¾ÅÒ»ÐÇ¿ÕÎÞÏÞtalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.