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One of the alluring, unmistakable truths about Hanmer Springs is that the gorgeous alpine haven has stayed true to its roots. It’s been a sanctuary for the weary and the leisure-seeking for centuries. With a long and storied legacy as a hot-spot for healing mind, body and soul, Hanmer Springs proudly remains a premium alpine spa destination, whether you’re a loved-up couple looking for a weekend escape, treating the whole family to some elemental treats, or you’re after some personal pampering. And it’s just an easy90 minute drive from Christchurch Airport, through the bucolic North Canterbury hinterland. Nature is the unbeatable balm to sooth the soul and spark your spirits in this secluded high-country basin.

My first stop was at the resort village’s crowning glory, Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa. With a lustrous back-story, the hot springs were developed as a publicly-owned bathhouse in 1884, fortuitously chiming with that insatiable Victorian passion for geothermal water and its therapeutic qualities. Prior to that, pounamu-gathering Māori had used the area as a resting place for centuries, while returning soldiers were sent to Hanmer to recuperate, after both world wars. (It’s great to see the historic old Soldiers’ Block, next to the pools, is currently being restored and set to reopen on Anzac Day.)

Hanmer Springs is my runaway favourite place to get into hot water. But before surrendering to the sweet sensation of this watery wonderland, my body was in need of some professional panel-beating, so I headed to The Spa Hanmer Springs. It’s one of New Zealand’s busiest day spas, so book in advance and take your pick from the slew of exquisite treatments, from facials and feet retreats to the full body affair.  I was booked in for a Spa Signature Massage, which is a full body relaxation massage.

But as I chatted to my charming therapist Sophie about my various aches and pains, she switched up the treatment into a deep tissue recovery massage. Spending copious hours on the keyboard and long-distance driving, plus several days of line-trimming my jungle-like garden into a presentable state had all taken its toll. Over the course of an hour, Sophie’s skilful techniques dealt to all the knots in my lower back, and released the stress and strain from my muscles. It was a liberating, corrective massage and I floated out of the spa like a happy little cloud. 

Luring over half a million visitors annually, the adjoining thermal pools complex is a sizzling attraction, where you can hop-scotch between the 22-strong network of rockpools, aqua therapy pools and sulphur pools. The latter are completely natural, containing unfiltered mineral water, with a soft and silky feel and piping hot at 42-45C.

You can also laze in the highly-sociable hexagonal pools, loll about in the freshwater lap pool and lazy river, or enjoy some high-action spills on the waterslides, headlined by the nation’s biggest slide Conical Thrill, and the recently installed hydro slides, Violet Vortex and Waiau Winder. I lolloped around the pools on multiple occasions during my stay. They’re just so good.

After enjoying some body therapy, I dabbled in some retail therapy from the eye-catching assortment of independent boutiques, homeware and gift stores clustered around the tree-lined main street. There’s a host of temptations, but I’m a big fan of Homestead and the Ada Design Store, for beautiful gifts and artistic home décor. Sweet tooths? The kids go crazy at the Lolly Pot, while a perennial go-to for nearly 25 years is Fudgelato, for fresh and creamy fudge and gelato. (Great name!)

Two-wheeled pursuits are a big draw in Hanmer and after far too much indulgence, I had excess calories to burn. Pop into Hanmer Adventure’s main street store who will get you pedalling in paradise, with a full range of rental bikes to choose from, from e-bikes to basic hardtail. They’ll get you geared up too, with helmets and gloves. There’s nearly 20 mountain bike tracks around Hanmer Springs, spanning all levels of expertise and endurance. If you’re up for a gentle introduction, Hanmer Forest Park’s Camp Walk Loop is a cracker, under a vast canopy of mature trees, while Alligator Alley and Snakes & Ladders are excellent trails too for easy-riding.

A family-favourite on foot in the Hanmer Heritage Forest, off Jollies Pass Road, is the Forest Amble Walk and the animal sculpture trail. These whimsical wooden sculptures were created by Christchurch sculptor, Andrew Lyons, crafted out of a felled Redwood. The sculptures include a friendly giant, a hawk, a dog, possum and orangutan. The 30-minute return walk follows a flat and easy track and it’s very embracing -  suitable for toddlers, buggies and the elderly.

Where to dine? Fuel up for your day’s adventures with a cranking breakfast at the Powerhouse Café. Located in a historic hydro power station which celebrates its centenary next year, you’ll find an enticing menu of hearty fare, sensational coffee, boutique beers and splendid Waipara wines. I had a great chat to the café owner, Mary Holloway, who has been in charge of the Powerhouse for over 20 years and a mainstay of the village community. For breakfast, don’t go past the chilli scrambled eggs. They’re served on toasted sourdough with stir-fried greens and roast chilli. Delish!

Spoil yourself with dinner at the hospitality winner, No. 31 Restaurant & Bar. Housed in a characterful main street cottage, No. 31 is lauded for its upmarket intimate dining. Joining many other discerning diners for dinner, I started with an entrée of beetroot arancini, plump with an almond & cheese filling. Despite the lavish selection of locally-sourced meat mains, I opted for the grilled calamari dish, marinated in parsley, lemon and olive oil and served on a bed of garden leaves. The desserts are deliriously good too, plumping for a warm sticky liquorice pudding with salted caramel sauce, candied walnuts and vanilla bean ice cream. As you’d expect from such a decorated establishment, the cocktail menu is just as creative. Order up a Mushroom Sour, a modern take on a whisky sour, infused with mushroom powder. It marries the earthy richness of fungi with the classic blend of whisky, lemon and a creamy egg white froth. It’s a savory and citrusy hit.

Where to stay? Amplify the sooth-factor by bedding down at Village Lake Luxury Apartments. Just a two minute walk from the thermal pools & spa off Jollies Pass Road, my expansive apartment was utterly idyllic. The balcony reached out to embrace the forest-draped vista of Conical Hill, Mt. Isobel and the sprawling Hanmer Range. But it’s the wraparound sense of serenity at the end of day and in the morning calm that makes this property such a sweet oasis. Lavishly appointed with all the creature comforts, you’ll have a designer kitchen to drool over, full laundry facilities, gas fire, underfloor heating, top-quality bedding and posh toiletries to ramp up the sense of indulgence..

If you’re a forward-planner, here’s something to lock into your diary. Hanmer Springs’ Alpine Winter Festival will return mid-year, kicking off for a fortnight of seasonal frolics on June 28. Enjoy icy plunge pools, night light tree top climbing, dazzling light displays, kids’ quizzes and glowing mini golf. And that's just the tip of the iceberg! Spoil yourself in Hanmer Springs.

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.